Caux, Switzerland to Lago d' Orto, Italy

We woke up to what every motorcyclist hates to hear: heavy rain on the roof.  A quick look outside verified the weather had turned cold, windy and rainy.  After a great breakfast, we packed up and waited for a break in the weather to take off.  The rain slowed for a bit and we rode back down the winding road, which was now a little slick with wet leaves.  Luckily we both ride with waterproof gear, so the wetness really doesn't bother us. Our plan for the day was to make it over the mountains into Italy.  We would ride through a massive tunnel, then drop down into the Valley D' Aosta, famous for their mushrooms, cheeses and wine.

Once over the mountain pass San Bernardo (yes, that's where the dogs are famous from), the rain stopped and we pulled into the village Aosta.  We ate lunch, explored the streets, and came across some kind of cheese festival.  They had cows and other animals out in the piazza for children to pet, and a couple dozen local cheese makers had tables out.  There was even cheese judging for anyone who wanted to compete in the middle of all of it.  It was pretty nice to sit back, drink a Fanta, and watch all of this happening.

After exploring, we headed east through the valley towards Lago D' Orto.  We read about a nice hotel on the water there and pointed the GPS in its direction.  By the time we arrived into town it was dark.  The GPS started taking us down narrower and narrower roads until we were riding on what seemed like walking paths.  The annoyed pedestrians were a sign that maybe we took the wrong route.  When we popped out into a piazza filled with restaurants and gift shops with our lights beaming onto dining customers, we realized that we really shouldn't be there.  A quick U-turn and a race back up the hill on cobblestone paths dodging tourists on late night strolls took us back to the main road.  We found a different approach on our own, and ended up in a different waterfront hotel that was as beautiful as the others.  The room had a view over the lake, and the other side of the hotel looked over the island San Giulio, which housed a massive monastery.  A great dinner of fresh pasta and local fish and mushrooms from the region was the perfect ending for the day.

- Matt

Laufen to Caux (Montreaux), Switzerland

After sleeping in, eating breakfast, and barely checking out in time, we were off again to another late start.  This was ok though, as we were well rested and the weather was beautiful.  Our route today took us on roads that made our jaws drop.  From Laufen, we rode some of the twistiest roads we’ve ever been on through farms, small villages, and over mountain passes.  We stopped for lunch at the top of one of the passes for a salami sandwich and a coke.  All the pastures were filled with cows that had huge bells hanging from their necks;  even through the motorcycle and wind noise you could hear the cows all around the valleys.  It sounded a lot like wind chimes.

We came down from the mountains to ride along lake Neuchatel before heading back up another pass  through Moudon towards Lake Leman. It was starting to get dark, so we really wanted to make it to a hotel that was suggested by a co-worker in the small village of Caux, outside of Montreaux.  After we made it down to the lake, the GPS started taking us up some very small winding roads up the side of the mountain.  Pretty soon the road got steeper, darker and more treacherous.  After stopping and evaluating the GPS’s route, we decided to turn around and try from a different side.  An hour  and 6 kilometers later, it was pitch black and we were climbing our way back up the other side of the hill towards the palatial hotel in Caux.  This huge hotel perched on the side of the mountain overlooking Lake Leman was turned into the Swiss Hotel Management School, which my coworker attended.  Unfortunately the hotel does not rent rooms, so we followed the GPS even further up the hill in hopes that it was correct that there was other lodging.  Luckily, we found a small bed and breakfast that had one room left for the night.  They were known for their fondue, and of course that’s what we ate for dinner along with a local bottle of wine.  Our room, while small, had a great view over the lake.  Amazing how things work out.

- Matt

Foreign Countries on a Foreign Bike

I haven't spent much time on bikes other than my own BMW F650GS (single cylinder) and Yamaha XT250, so I must admit that I was a little apprehensive about riding in foreign countries on a new bike. I should've known I was in very capable hands, though. Between the fabulous folks at Touratech and my own wonderful husband, I have ended up on an amazing set of wheels: a BMW F650GS twin cylinder. This has all the handling and weight that I know and love but more power on demand. Now I can keep up with Matt! Plus, the twin cylinder system provides an unbelievably smooth ride, a stark contrast to my "thumper" back home. The folks at Touratech even hooked up an outlet for my heated gear so that I can ride through the Alps without freezing to death! In other words, I could not have asked for a better loaner. Now the only thing I'm nervous about is missing this bike when I go back home!

- Brayde

A Late Start - Niedereschach Germany to Laufen Switzerland

After a short, early-morning flight from Berlin to Stuttgart and a long drive from Stuttgart to Niedereschach, we arrived back at the Touratech headquarters in the afternoon.  After a quick lunch, it was time to pack up the bikes and head out.  This was easier said than done.  First we did a little shopping.  We needed maps for the countries we’d be riding through as well as new riding gloves for both of us.  After that, it was time to load the bikes with everything we needed, and pack our bags to leave at Touratech.  This was the most time consuming part. We decided not to camp during this trip, so really all we needed to bring were clothes, camera, and riding gear, but it takes a lot more time to pack someone else’s bike that you’re not familiar with.  By the time we hit the road, it was around 4:00 in the afternoon.  We had hoped to make it to Montreaux, but that definitely wouldn’t happen. 

The roads were excellent, and gave us a good chance to get used to the feel of the bikes. A stop at the Swiss border required us to purchase a pass for one of the motorcycles to ride on the highway.  Brayde’s bike already had one.  This is sort of like paying the tolls for all the roads in Switzerland for the year, all at once.  Too bad we were only going to be there a couple days.

Our hotel in Laufen (pink building in middle)

The first stretch of the trip took us to Laufen Switzerland, a quiet little town not too far across the border.  We booked a room at the only hotel we could find and had a nice dinner amongst a bunch of rowdy local farmers at the restaurant next door.  The plate of food I had was massive, but was a good sample of local sausages, liverwurst, and pork.  After catching up on some blog posts, it was time to catch up on some sleep.  Hopefully we’d make it to Montreaux tomorrow.

-Matt

Berlin!

From Intermot to Berlin! We have spent the last two days exploring Berlin with our dear friends Ian and Ebe. What a city! Respect for the history is displayed in big ways (Berlin Wall) and small (Stolperstein or “stumbling stone,” a brick families can purchase in the sidewalk to honor a loved one they lost in concentration camps). As luck would have it, we even arrived on German Unity Day, celebrating the day the East and West were reunified after the war. So, we got to bump into a big festival, too. Obviously, 48 hours doesn’t do a city the magnitude of Berlin justice, but we made the most of it, visiting several sightseeing destinations and, of course, beer gardens.

We visited an interpretive center across the street from where a church was demolished for the construction of the Berlin Wall because the borderline ran right through it.

What the Berlin Wall used to look like, before professional artists

Berlin Wall now

 Berlin is a fascinating blend of cultures, which translated to many meals and snacks around the city as we explored. We should probably go on a cleansing fast when we get home, but it’s been well worth it to us! My favorite so far has been Käsespätzle with pork strips, followed closely by Dürüm Döner. Can’t wait to see what other regional fare our trip has in store for us!

-Brayde

Intermot Cologne 2012

 

We were fortunate enough to visit the Intermot motorcycle show this year on press day.  Intermot is a biennial show held in Cologne Germany, and one of the biggest in the world.  About 1100 exhibitors put up massive displays and close to 200,000 people are expected to attend.

This show has a much bigger scale than anything I've attended.  I've been to a lot of trade shows through my job, but I've never seen the manufacturers pull out all the stops like this.  For example, when BMW rolled out the new water-cooled R1200GS, they rode two of them down a staircase and a ramp while a rock band played in the back ground.  After unveiling the bikes they served food and drinks.  The roll-outs from other manufacturers like KTM and Suzuki we attended were equally impressive.

There were so many displays that it would take you a couple days to see everything  Brayde and I managed to walk though every building and hall, and I think got a good sampling of all the new bikes and products.  Our feet were tired, and after a few Kolsch beers, we got a good night's sleep knowing we'd be flying to Berlin first thing in the morning.

I took plenty of pictures, so if anyone wants to see more, just let me know.

-Matt

How to Order a Beer in Cologne

We have been to Cologne a few times in the past, and were busy with Intermot, so we kept the sightseeing to a minimum.  Cologne is a beautiful city.  Their Dom is one of  my favorite cathedrals in Europe.  I highly recommend spending a day there if you can. One thing you need to do when visiting Cologne is sit down and drink a nice local Kolsch beer.

The beer ordering process in Cologne is unique, but very efficient once learned:

Step 1) Pick a table outside and sit down.

Step 2) If you want a beer, put a coaster out in front of you.

Step 3) Waiter will come by with a beer for you.

Step 4) Drink beer.  Be careful.  The glasses are small, but pack a punch.

Step 5) When beer is finished, another one will immediately be brought out.

Step 6) Once you've had enough beers, place your coaster on top of the glass to indicate you're done. If you are not sober enough at this point to do so, have a friend do it for you.

Step 7) Pay your tab, then go get some currywurst.

-Matt